Fret height is not a trivial change of height.
I want to be able to adjust for zero string height and ideally that should be within one full turn of the adjustment screw from bottomed out on the adjustment range.Ĭheck that with the frets installed. Adjust as necessary to get the bridge height within your desired sweet spot.įor me, I like the bridge to sit low on the studs but I should always be able to lower the bridge enough to lay the strings flat down on the frets in full contact with the last fret. Sane advice: No matter what you calculate, TEST FIT your neck and be super observant of the height of the string plane as it crosses over the exact bridge type you have chosen for the build. carved top guitars dont lend themselves to that construction technique very well as the fretboard seems to stand very proud of the body because of the shim.
with a 2.5 degree neck angle and a shim under the fretboard over the body. I have built neckthrough, flat topped Jr's that way. then you have to add a shim across the body top from fret 16 to the end of the board. If you plug the same numbers in and use fret 16 as the break point. 068 string action and fret 24 as the break point. (on a neck-thru, you start the neck angle where the body meets the neck and then add a wedge shaped shim under the fretboard over the body) you pick fret 24 becasue the end of the board is where the neck angle begins relative to the face of the guitar.
It uses a "body join" fret number to calculate the angle, but on a Paul. I actually made an excel based neck angle caclulator for Neck through guitars.
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